Brooklands Park and its Swimming Pool

The area of land known today as Brooklands Park, in East Grinstead, was originally two adjacent plots, both of which were owned by Sir Thomas Brooke-Hitching. One bordered directly onto what is now Brooklands Way, opposite the present Copyhold Estate, and ran down to the bottom of the hill, to the cottages on the left, the other plot encompassing the area mostly to the south and east of this, and including the location where the open-air swimming pool would later be built. Sir Thomas had plans to develop the former site as a housing estate, and on 4 July 1906 generously gifted the latter site to the Urban District Council, to be held in trust, and used as a park and recreation area for the benefit of the public in perpetuity. It seems from press reports of the time that the housing development began to be built, but was problematic, probably because of the topography and the ground conditions there, and the auction failed to attract buyers. This site was also later acquired by the UDC, on 14 April 1920, but the idea that they might use it for development was abandoned, probably for the same reasons, and it was also designated as part of Brooklands Park.

At this time, Brooklands Way was still the unnamed extension of an ancient track, which once ran from Copyhold Farm, also known locally as Killick’s Farm. The track followed the same route as the present road, downhill to today’s Hurst Farm roundabout. One of the old cottages adjacent to the roundabout was originally the mill-house for Brook Mill, the demesne watermill of Imberhorne Manor, which for centuries had stood nearby, but had all but disappeared by the mid-nineteenth century, and ceased working much earlier. The land behind the mill-house, now a garage block, was probably a millpond, the bell-shaped outline detectable on maps and aerial photographs.

Brooklands Park is located on the spring-line, several springs rising to the surface here, their water draining into the Sunnyside Stream, a headwater of the Medway, and flowing down to the sites of Brook Mill, Dunnings Mill and Brambletye Mill, and many more mills after flowing into the river.

There had been talk of providing an open-air public “swimming bath” for East Grinstead for many years before the one in Brooklands Park finally materialised in 1912. Back in 1892, when the Local Board was still in charge of the town, Mr W. H. Steer built such a pool for his own use, and to demonstrate the need for public “baths” for the health and fitness of the population. By 1894 he had made tentative plans to enlarge his swimming bath to three or four times its original size, but realising that there might be other opportunities to be had, he wrote to the Board, offering to meet with a committee to discuss the possibility of their funding its enlargement and taking it over as a public asset. The Board was then in a transitional period, and it was decided that they could not commit to such an enterprise, so they wrote and thanked Mr Steer for his offer, but declined it, as they “could not see their way to doing anything in the matter.” Nevertheless, public demand for an open-air swimming pool intensified over the following decade, and became almost irresistible, particularly as Lewes had shown that it was feasible. The following item appeared in the Sussex Agricultural Express of 12th August 1905…

“An East Grinstead Need: There has been considerable comment recently in East Grinstead respecting the need of a swimming bath in the town. That it is a need cannot be disputed, for at the present time there is nowhere under a mile and a half from the town where this popular and useful form of exercise can be indulged in, and even then, ladies are precluded. It would not be necessary to construct a palatial building, as an open bath would meet the requirement. If the Council managed the Baths as at Lewes, the expense of upkeep would be covered by the nominal charges, while the boon of such a place would be inestimable.”

In January 1907 the town’s Roads & Bridges Committee applied for permission to widen West Hill and create an entrance into what was later to be called Brooklands Park. Permission was granted, and in retrospect this can be seen as a significant development, which greatly improved accessibility. Sir Thomas Brooke-Hitching, in addition to providing the land for the recreation ground or park, also supplied the land for widening the road, and gave permission for the new access path from the road.

By the end of 1910, it had been agreed, in principle, that a public swimming pool would be built in Brooklands Park, and the Urban District Council approached the Board of the nearby Workhouse, seeking shared use of the spring water that supplied it. They also asked if they could acquire the land for creating the necessary footpath access. The Board agreed to these requests, and a sub-committee was formed to consult with the UDC and report back.

On 12th April 1912, the Sussex Agricultural Express reported that…

“The construction of the swimming bath by the Urban Council, at Brooklands Park, has been completed, and the councillors and others who were present at the official inspection were very pleased with what they saw. That the bath will be greatly appreciated, there is no doubt, for the town has sadly lacked accommodation for swimmers. The bath itself is 80 feet long and 35 feet wide, and capital dressing boxes are fitted up. It was designed by local surveyor Mr. W. E. Woollam, and the work was carried out under his supervision.”

The issue of mixed-bathing was still to be resolved in early June, and Mr Bennett, the secretary of East Grinstead Swimming Club, wrote to the Council to ascertain if it would be permitted. Mr Steer proposed that it should be, but his proposal was not seconded, and it was decided that mixed bathing would not be allowed during the “experimental” stage in the first season.

The formal opening of the Brooklands swimming pool took place on Saturday 1st June 1912, when a “large gathering” attended the Recreation Ground for the occasion. Several councillors were present, and speeches were delivered, including one by the Chairman of the Bath Committee, who said that it was “quite an acquisition” for the town, and one that had been completed for the modest sum of £350. He congratulated all concerned, including Mr Woollam, the designer of the swimming bath and surveyor for the project. However, the Chairman of the Council, Mr J. Rice JP, put rather a dampener on the celebrations, by appearing with a black eye, having been attacked that morning “for doing his duty faithfully and fearlessly for the town” and he proceeded to lecture “the young men who stood at street corners,” suggesting that if they were to spend some time at the baths, cleansing their bodies and washing out their mouths, the streets would be the better for it.” The event concluded with members of the newly-formed Swimming Club and Tunbridge Wells Monson Swimming Club engaging in a water-polo match and giving exhibitions of life saving and diving, while the Military and Town bands played on.

Use of the swimming pool and recreation ground continued throughout the Great War (WW1) and, in May 1915 a miniature rifle range was proposed for the site, the former owner Sir Thomas Brooke-Hitching, who had given that part of the park to the town as a gift a few years earlier, saying that he had no objection, in fact he would be pleased. The scheme was approved and work began almost immediately, with Volunteer Training Corps recruits working to level a portion of the park for the range. In October that year it was reported that Members of East Grinstead Volunteer Training Corps competed on their range at Brooklands Park for the Bell Medal, each competitor firing ten rounds deliberate and ten rounds with a time limit.”

In February 1917, the Council’s Farm Committee recommended that about an acre of Brooklands Recreation Ground should be let to the War Work Association for producing foodstuffs for a term of three years, at an annual rental of £1 an acre. But the request was declined, stating that the use of the land for allotments should be referred to others.

During the interwar years the popularity of the park and pool increased, with well-attended annual galas, swimming lessons and related activities taking place. It seems that the earlier swimming club had lapsed at some point, but was successfully relaunched in 1924.

“The success that attended the gala and Swimming Club evening at Brooklands Park was unexpected by even the most optimistic member. It is certain that the swimming enthusiasts who started the club just over year ago did not dream that it would become popular and attain such importance in the short period of twelve months. A large number of townspeople attended, and a few minutes after the commencement there was not seat to be had, many having to stand throughout the proceedings.”

During the 1930s, the Urban Council committed to a policy of creating work for unemployed workers, wherever possible. A discussion at a meeting in February 1933 had led to the following work being undertaken in order to provide employment: The creation of two terraces for land on the east side of the Brooklands Park recreation ground was scheduled, and the south terrace was to be given an area as large as possible, with a view to it being used as a children’s playground. Other works included piping the stream from a point near the swimming baths, and the clearance of brambles and dead trees from the east and west sides of both.

At this time, it became clear that the condition of the pool had deteriorated badly, and it needed urgent and expensive repairs, for which there there was no provision in the budget. The work proposed for that winter was reluctantly cancelled. But, in June 1934, a meeting of the Parks, Baths and Cemeteries Committee recommended approval of a scheme for the enlargement and improvement of the swimming pool and surrounding area, at an estimated cost of £3,700. It was accepted, and work began soon afterwards. The East Grinstead Official Guide (3rd edition) later described the procedure, and the impressive results that were achieved…

“The pool was enlarged and modified in 1934-5 at a cost of approximately £3,500. The water enters the pool in a continual flow down an imposing cascade, and is kept pure by an up-to-date purification plant. The concrete bath has walls faced with pre-cast artificial stone slabs having a polished face, and is 100 feet long by 40 feet wide, with a capacity of 162,240 gallons of water. A 3-2-1 metre diving stage is provided, as well as an “S” water-chute at the deep end, where there is a depth of 10 feet of water. The shallow end has a chute for children. Fifty cubicles are provided for changing, and the wire-basket scheme for clothes prevents congestion. Around the pool are attractive rock gardens, flower-beds and lawns, helping to make this an ideal spot for a bathe on a warm summer’s day.”

Two years later, the Southern Weekly News gave it high praise: “The swimming pool is in a setting which I have never seen equalled, people come from miles around to bathe here.”

The original pool had opened shortly before the outbreak of the first World War, and it wasn’t long after the inauguration of the substantially modified pool, that the dark clouds of conflict began to gather again. Preparations for war were taking place, including the erection of an air-raid shelter in Brooklands Way and elsewhere in the town. In February 1939 the country was still very much in recession when the following report appeared in the East Grinstead Observer…

“The committee considered the question of advancing schemes to relieve the number of unemployed men in East Grinstead. The Surveyor reported on the matter, and stated that in connection with the Improvement of West Hoathly Road, there would be a large quantity of excavated material which he suggested should be removed to Brooklands Park and used to fill certain depressions, and widen the embankment of the swimming pool, at an estimated cost of £150. It would employ three men for six weeks.“

The onset of World War Two meant that concessions would have to be made, and people would need to adapt to changes that would have been unacceptable in peacetime. Public land was dug up, and allotments were created at several sites around the town, including Brooklands Park and King George’s Field. Later in the war, there were complaints about the growing and selling of flowers, rather than vegetables, at Brooklands allotment plots, but the complaints were not upheld, as it was established that the flowers took up little space and attracted bees, which was beneficial.

Money was tight for many residents, and East Grinstead District Youth Committee asked the council if it would allow members aged between 14 and 20 to use the swimming pool for two nights a week at 2d (tuppence) per head. This was agreed, subject to a number of conditions. It was considered important that recreation and entertainment should continue throughout the war, and regular swimming galas and musical performances took place at the swimming pool and recreation ground, and these were well-attended. Cinema was also a very popular form of entertainment in East Grinstead, and was always well supported by local people, but it was during a film show at the Whitehall Cinema in London Road that a bomb hit the packed cinema, causing many injuries and the tragic deaths of 108 people, many of them being children. In 1942, the West Hill and Brooklands Park area had been hit by a cluster of bombs, causing great damage, but no serious casualties.

The end of the war was welcomed with great relief by the population. Members of the armed forces were progressively demobbed, returning home to a warm welcome, and the “baby boom” years began. Rationing continued until well into the 1950s, and many bomb sites were yet to be cleared, but people were looking ahead to better days.

In August 1950, the Swimming Pool and Recreation Grounds were more popular than ever, and an Aquatic Show was included as part of Carnival Week, hosting a range of children’s competitions, activities and events. A summer catering experiment was introduced at Brooklands swimming pool later that year, offering refreshments to the customers. To many of the post-war children of East Grinstead in the 50s, 60s and 70s, it was the place to go, to meet friends and have fun – and many of them did just that. Michael Leppard noted in his History of East Grinstead that over 35,000 attendances were recorded at Brooklands Park pool in 1958, including 7,000 school children under instruction, and Wednesday 8 July 1959 saw a record mid-week attendance of 1,326 with the previous weekend a record 2,782. In order to cope, the pool stayed open until midnight on those days, although not without complaints from the neighbours and letters to the local press.

In 1978, the pool was again in need of costly renovation, the district council claiming that it would be uneconomic to repair. It continued to open on a limited basis in 1979, but was “living on borrowed time” and would not continue for long. The following May there was still a faint hope of saving it, and an action group was campaigning for it, but it wasn’t to be, and East Grinstead Swimming Club made alternative arrangements for its 400 members. The closure of the pool was agreed by the Amenities Committee in early 1980, and a year later the site was being reinstated and landscaped, as outlined in the East Grinstead Observer’s report of 17th September 1981. It seems that the term “Lido” for the pool area had only been used on a regular basis since it became under threat of closure, although the reason for this is unclear. It is also interesting to note that the swimming pool was “filled,” not broken up, so it is actually still there beneath its landscaped grassy platform in Brooklands Park.

“The disused Brooklands Lido at East Grinstead looks as though it will be adapted to benefit local people after all. The former swimming pool, which closed down over a year ago, because it cost too much to maintain, is now being transformed into a useful meeting and storage place for town organisations. The pool itself has been filled and final landscaping works are nearing completion.”

For some years before the closure, proposals for an indoor pool at King George’s Field had been on and off the table at least twice – once because the projected pool was considered too small, and once because the cost was too high for a larger pool, at £1 million. It would perhaps have cost less to restore Brooklands pool and go for a small indoor option as well. But that is all water under the bridge now, and though this is a related subject, it is outside the remit of this tale of the loss of one of the town’s greatest assets.

Today, Brooklands Park is just that – a somewhat neglected park, with a brook running through it. It can no longer claim to be a Recreation Ground. The excitement and enjoyment that residents and visitors of all ages once felt there, have vanished, with only the children’s play area left as a faint reminder of past glories. Proposals for improvement have several times failed to materialise, and in recent years the park appears to have been given a low priority, in favour of other local parks and recreation areas. What would it take to get people to return? Arranging events to be held there instead of East Court perhaps? A bandstand and even public toilets perhaps (the infrastructure is probably still there)?

A nature reserve would be a good start, but not enough on its own. Several times in recent years the stream has been polluted with sewage leaking into it, resulting in fines for the water company. Drug dealing and other illicit activities take place there, and littering is an issue. It was once a beautiful place, and could be again. Let’s get it sorted out please Mid Sussex District Council, for the sake of the residents for whom the park was created, and before those of us who remember its heyday are no longer around to enjoy it and remind people that it is their park.

Roy Henderson, 8 March 2024.

Reminiscences of East Grinstead as a Railway Centre by Peter Chapman.

If you are looking for the full text of Peter Chapman’s Reminiscences of East Grinstead as a Railway Centre, you will find it on this link: http://tinyurl.com/2p8926w5

William James Chapman

William James Chapman was born, together with his twin sister Kezia Jane, at Horsham in 1884. The twins’ parents, John Chapman and Catherine (née Oliver) had married in Croydon in October 1882. Will was probably named after his two grandfathers, William Oliver and James Chapman. Within a year or so of the twins’ birth, the family were living at 95 West Street in East Grinstead.

Will began working at East Grinstead Post Office as a “Learner” in 1897 (aged 13) and became a Sorting Clerk and Telegraphist there. He continued at the East Grinstead office for the next 47 years, except for his war service and a few months at the Tunbridge Wells office, being presented with the Imperial Service Medal by the Head Postmaster on his retirement in 1944.

One of his Post Office colleagues in the early years was named Evelyn, she was the daughter of John Crapps, a celebrated bandmaster, organist and conductor in Brighton. Her brother Walter was then organist and choirmaster at Saint Swithun’s Church in East Grinstead. Evelyn was lodging at this time with the Head Porter’s family at the Old Station House. The two office colleagues soon became close friends and fell in love. A series of Post Office staff group photographs, taken in the years before the Great War show them both, with Will standing directly behind Evelyn.

East Grinstead Post Office Staff c1910. Evelyn is 4th from the left. Will is standing behind her.

In January 1913 the couple married at Henfield, where Evelyn’s parents were then living, her brother Walter playing the church organ for the wedding. Will and Evelyn moved into a newly built house in Crescent Road, East Grinstead, on what was then Plot 14 of the Hucknall Estate, having received the title deeds the preceding September. Their son Peter was born in their new home at the end of December 1913.

Early in October 1915, Will Chapman enrolled in the Royal Engineers (Signals) and was sent to Birmingham for drill training, before going to Fenny Stratford (Bletchley) for instruction in telegraph and communication skills. In Mid February 1916 he travelled with other trainees from Hitchin base depot to Plymouth, for the first leg of his journey to Camp Cleopatra in Egypt. At this time, Will began to keep a War Diary, which he continued to write until Mid 1917, at which time he was finally allowed to go home on leave for three or four weeks, before returning to France.

The War Diary, consisting of over 16,000 words, covers his training in Egypt, his journey by ship and train via Marseilles to the Somme (in cattle trucks) where he saw action in the trenches and dugouts near Albert, coming under fire on several occasions. He was then deployed to the French/Belgian border, where he also saw intense action.

But Will’s diary is not just about the war, it reveals much about the man himself, who loved rambling in the woods, enjoying nature and describing what he saw. He made a point of seeking out and meeting up with servicemen that he knew from his home town and elsewhere, whenever he knew they were nearby. His style of writing was often quite eloquent.

Soon after his return from leave Will was assigned to “X” Corps, and headed south to the Italian front by train, where he was based with GHQ Signal Company until after the war ended, being in Venice on the day that peace was declared, and finally able to tell Evelyn where he was.

Although no longer, as far as is known, writing a diary at this time, he sent home frequent letters and over 240 postcards, right up until the time he left Italy. All the postcards and one of the letters survive, preserved by Will and Evelyn’s son Peter, along with the diary, which has recently been transcribed, with the intention of having it published.

Will returned to East Grinstead Post Office to complete his many years of loyal service, and continued to live in Crescent Road until March 1970, when he passed away, having outlived Evelyn by seven years.

Wallace Wyndham Waite

Wallace Wyndham Waite was born in East Grinstead on 29th March 1881, just five days before that year’s National Census was to take place. As his parents were yet to agree on a name for him, he was recorded on the return for the Moat Road property in which they were living, simply as “Infant Waite.” The house name or number was not specified, but the sequence suggests that it was probably number 110, which was set back from the main row of houses, close to where the Scouts’ Hall now stands. Also recorded on the census entry were Wallace’s parents, William and Sarah Waite (née Sims), and their four older children, Gertrude, William, Robert and John, the latter having been born in East Grinstead the previous year. A “visitor” (Florence Sims) and “domestic servant” (Clara Kearsley) were also present for the census.  

Wallace’s father, William, was in East Grinstead working as an “agent to [the] railway contractor” building the new Low Level line and its infrastructure, but he was not “a renowned civil engineer,” as stated elsewhere. The previous census had recorded his occupation as “Farmer’s Son,” and the subsequent return said that he was a “Railway Contractor’s General Foreman.” But, by that time, the East Grinstead railway construction contract had been completed, and the family were living in Shepton Mallet, where Wallace attended the Grammar School for a while, before leaving home to become an apprentice grocer for three years in Pontypool, from the age of 12.

By the age of 20, Wallace was staying in Paddington, as a “visitor,” while working as a “grocer’s assistant,” but his census entry for that year (1901) is ambiguous, as it records his age as 23, and his birthplace as Lewisham. Whether someone else completed the census entry for him incorrectly, or he was deliberately trying to appear older than he was, is unknown, although it is reported that, on other occasions, he told people that he had been born in Wales, which was true for some of his siblings, but not for him.

In 1903/4, Wallace Wyndham Waite went into partnership, in Acton, with Arthur Rose and David Taylor, opening a grocery store under the name “Waite, Rose & Taylor.” But Taylor left the partnership in 1906, and Mr Waite and Mr Rose began trading as Waitrose from 1908. On August 12th that year, Wallace returned briefly to Shepton Mallet, where he married Kathleen Hall. Both partnership ventures (the grocery business and the marriage) proved successful, and soon the business was expanding, with additional shops being opened. After the Great War (WW1) Arthur Rose’s health declined, and he retired from the business. 

Wallace became increasingly influential, as Waitrose evolved, holding the Royal Warrant, and serving on several prestigious committees. In 1934, he was awarded an MBE by the King, having been “lately Member of the Food Retail Advisory Sub-committee of the Empire Marketing Board.” In 1937 the Waitrose stores became part of the John Lewis Partnership. 

Wallace Wyndham Waite died at Maidenhead in 1971.

Primary Sources:

Census and other records online via FamilySearch.org

TheWeald.org (online)

Waitrose & Partners Memory Store (online)

Industrial Archaeology of East Grinstead

6. Brook Mill Site TQ 38720 37686

Brook Mill was the demesne watermill of Imberhorne Manor, the mill owned by the Lord of the Manor, and worked for the benefit of the manorial estate. The tenants would have been required to have their corn milled there (“corn” in this sense meaning any cereal grain, although it was mostly oats or wheat in the East Grinstead area). The miller would have retained a portion of the grain or flour as a “multure” payment for his work.

Two streams combine at the foot of Turners Hill Road (formerly called Coombe Hill and, before that, Old Mill Hill) where, after having flowed down respectively from Brooklands Park and the Garden Wood estate, via now lost millponds and pen-ponds, they pass beneath the road as a mill leat, with a side-stream bypassing the mill-site in a conduit, rejoining the millrace downstream, and continuing as the Sunnyside Stream to Dunnings Mill and the former Brambletye Mill, to enter the Medway. The mill is shown on the left in this early postcard, adjacent to the smoking chimney, but by the time the photograph was taken, it had long since ceased to function, and was possibly used for storage. The two children on the right were walking where the Hurst Farm roundabout is now. The house on the right “White Cross” is still there.

Nearby, at the foot of Brooklands Way, is an old cottage with the name “Mill House” engraved above the door. A mill house was the home of the miller and his family, rather than the mill itself. The unusual alignment of the site in relation to the rest of the area, betrays the orientation of a mill bay (dam) set at right-angles to the Brooklands Park stream.

The Buckhurst Terrier survey of the late sixteenth century mentions “Brook Mill with the Pightle adjoining” (a pightle was an irregular piece of enclosed land). Although not a Domesday mill (a mill mentioned in the Domesday survey) it was old. It may have ceased operating in the late seventeenth century, a lease of 1689 referring to “Part of the demesne of Imberhorne Manor formerly covered with water called The Millpond.” By 1721 it was already being called “The Old Mill” in tithe documents. A contract of 1727 mentions a new stone bridge across the old millpond bay in East Grinstead, and this may also relate to the Brook Mill site.

The reasons for the watermill’s decline and demise are a matter for conjecture, but its modest size and close proximity to more-powerful mills may have been contributory factors. The possible later reduction in the size of the millpond may indicate that the bay had been breached, or that the flow of water had declined to uneconomic levels. The national census of 1841 shows that the Mill House was then occupied by labourer John Geer and his wife Lucy.

Industrial Archaeology of East Grinstead

5. The “Bow Bells” Mileposts

The “Bow Bells” Milepost Myth

A broken chain of milestones and mileposts stand along what was once one of the principal routes from London, passing through Surrey and Sussex to Eastbourne and Lewes, the roads diverging at Uckfield. In general, the Surrey examples are milestones, and the Sussex ones are mileposts, but there are exceptions. Collectively they are called mile markers.

The surviving markers are of various designs, some of which are painted white, with a raised black pattern and number on the front, leading to the belief that they represent a rebus (pictorial puzzle) that when solved gives the distance from the Bow Bells (Saint Mary-le-Bow) church in London. The suggestion that the pattern depicts a bow and a chain of bells is enticing, until one looks more closely and examines the evidence.

The “Bow Bells” theory probably dates from the first decade of the twentieth century, as no earlier references have been found, but there is a widely-held belief that the theory is fact, despite evidence clearly showing that this is not the case. Unfortunately, the myth has long been (and still is being) disseminated in magazine articles, books, websites, local guides and other official sources, even though doubts have been expressed in several relevant publications, including Country Life magazine, and the Milestone Society’s newsletters.

The milestones are known to date from 1743, as some are marked with the year, and a newspaper report in the London Evening Post of September 10th that year notes that their positions were being marked out through Croydon, that town apparently being responsible for thirteen of them, with the subsequent markers being the responsibility of Sussex. The last Surrey milestone in the sequence is the extant 25-mile marker near Blindley Heath – the final three in the county, and most in Sussex, being mileposts.

The three mileposts in East Grinstead are marked 29, 30 and 31, indicating the number of miles from the markers’ reference point in London, which was the Standard at Cornhill, a very specific location, and not the Bow Bells church. The Cornhill Standard was an ancient fountain, which was considered to mark the centre of London, before it was redefined as Charing Cross in the nineteenth century. The measurements’ origin is clear from old Ordnance Survey maps, and also from the inscriptions on the milestones themselves. This seriously undermines the “Bow Bells” theory, which requires that the distances be measured from the Bow-Bells church. If (as they are) the measurements are from the Standard at Cornhill, then the symbol interpreted as a rebus, clearly is not one, and the theory is void.

The most likely interpretation of the pattern on the mileposts is that it depicts a string of bell-shaped flowers, and it has been shown to be very similar to a decorative furniture pattern commonly in use during the eighteenth century. This idea is supported in various publications, particularly in response to a letter sent to Country Life in 1908, although the identification of the plant as being a particular variety is unlikely to be correct, as that is believed to have been introduced in the early nineteenth century. A more likely candidate may be Campanula, or perhaps the common Bluebell.

Is it time to rename the “Bow Bell” mileposts the “Bluebell” mileposts? It seems a more appropriate name.

There were 63 (64 if you count a duplicated one at Wych Cross) mile markers on the route from London to Eastbourne – 38 (39) mileposts similar to the three in East Grinstead, and 25 milestones. The stones clearly show “Cornhill” as their origin point, The posts, including the series between Uckfield and Lewes, do not specify, but are shown as “London” on old OS maps, which also meant Cornhill in the 18th century. A plaque on the wall of an old bookshop in Lewes also gives the measurement as being from Cornhill.

None of these markers mention Bow, and there is no evidence that it was ever used as a measuring point. __________________________________________________________________________________

Sources:

Thurston Hopkins, R. “Old English Mills and Inns” (Palmer 1927) p189

Country Life Magazine, 31st October 1908

Harper, Charles. The Brighton Road (Chapman & Hall 1906)

Milestone Society Newsletters (discussed in several issues, available online)

Ordnance Survey Map – Six inch, 1888-1913.

Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, Vol 27 (1914).

Industrial Archaeology of East Grinstead

4. The Malthouse (TQ 38959 38493)

In Station Road, East Grinstead, near the junction with London Road, stands a building that is now used by the Royal British Legion, but was originally designed for producing the malt required as part of the brewing process, and for other purposes. Until around 1920, the main part of the brewing complex stood on the site where the fire station now stands, and there is documentary evidence that malting was associated with that location from as early as the mid eighteenth century. The extant malthouse building was constructed in the late 19th century, probably during the ownership of Dashwood & Co., who were calling themselves “Brewers & Maltsters” in their publicity from the mid 1880s.

The history of the brewery itself takes some unravelling, and it is fair to say that not all of the existing published material is entirely accurate, especially some of the online sources. However, this post is about the malthouse, so to place it in context, here’s a brief summary of the main brewery site’s history, from the time of its establishment as the Hope Brewery, in the late 1830s, until its final closure and demolition.

1839* Burt & Hooker, Brewers, Hope Brewery

1844 Brewery sold by Thomas Burt to Edward Kenward of Uckfield

1857 Charles Absolom leases the Hope Brewery

1858* Absolom, Charles, Brewer, Hope brewery

1861 Charles Absolom purchases the Hope Brewery

1866* Absolom, Charles, Brewer, Hope brewery

1868 Steam engine installed at the Hope Brewery

1877 John Dashwood leases the Hope Brewery from Absolom

1878* Dashwood, John, Hope brewery

1878* East Grinstead Brewery (John Dashwood, Proprietor) London road

1881 John Thomas Dashwood, married, age 32, born Isle of Wight, occupation Brewer (Census)

1885* J. Dashwood & Co. Brewers & Maltsters, The Brewery, East Grinstead

1891 John T Dashwood. Age 42. Brewer, Farmer & Maltster. Brewery House, London Road (Census)

1892 Incorporated as Dashwood & Company Ltd

1895 Brewery purchased by A.G.S. & T.S. Manning, together with the Southdown Brewery in Lewes.

1899* Southdown & East Grinstead Breweries Limited, brewers, maltsters, wine & spirit merchants & mineral water manufacturers, London Road

1905* Southdown & East Grinstead Breweries

1911* Southdown & East Grinstead Breweries Ltd. Southdown Brewery, Mailing street, Lewes [and] London Road, East Grinstead.

1915* Thomas Sackville Manning living at the Brewery house in East Grinstead (see 1895)

1920 Brewery leased to Tamplin’s of Brighton

1924 Brewery site purchased outright by Tamplin’s (brewery demolished)

* Directory Entries

The Malthouse…

The image below shows a malthouse of very similar design to the one that operated in East Grinstead. Note the uses of the various floors, and the furnace on the right. Illustration by Allan Adams for English Heritage.

Externally, the surviving building retains much of its original design, still having its luccam (the projecting cover over the hoist) but now lacking its cowl. The windows have also been repositioned, in consequence of the major internal alterations that were necessary to make it suitable for other uses.

The sign on the front of the building in this archive image relates not to the building itself, but to Best’s furniture repository, which stood in London Road, directly opposite the brewery complex. William Best also owned the adjacent corn and coal store (the building is now the QVS store) and as the photograph suggests, is likely to have had close links with the Brewery, in his wide-ranging business activities, bearing in mind that the word “corn” (at least in the UK) means any type of cereal grain, including barley, which is the most common type of grain used for producing malt. The house abutting the malthouse on the left (now demolished) was occupied by the maltster.

Images and text Copyright Roy Henderson 2022 unless otherwise stated

Main Sources:

National Archives Discovery: Southdown and East Grinstead Breweries Limited

East Grinstead Society Bulletin 030, Spring 1981: The Hope Brewery (M. J. Leppard)

Strategy for the Historic Industrial Environment. 1. Maltings in England. Report by Amber Patrick for English Heritage, July 2004. Available online as a pdf download.

Local Directories (various dates) including Pigot’s, Kelly’s and Post Office.

Industrial Archaeology of East Grinstead

3. Imberhorne Viaduct (Hill Place Viaduct) TQ 38411 37833

The Grade II listed Imberhorne (aka Hill Place) Viaduct was built for the Lewes & East Grinstead Railway, and now carries the preserved Bluebell Railway. It was designed jointly by distinguished Civil Engineers John Wolfe-Barry (appointed by the Lewes & East Grinstead Railway board) and Frederick Dale Banister (appointed by the London, Brighton & South Coast Railway board). This dual approach led to frequent friction and disagreements.

Among his other notable structures, Barry was responsible for the design of Tower Bridge in London. Banister worked mostly, but not exclusively, on major railway projects. He died at his home in Forest Row in 1897, and is buried in the cemetery there. The engineer overseeing the viaduct project was Joseph Firbank, after whom Firbank Way in East Grinstead is named.

The viaduct has ten arches, and at track level is 242 metres (265 yards or 795 feet) long. The arches vary in height, because of the undulating ground beneath, the tallest arch being 28 metres (93 feet) over the Garden Wood Road stream, one of the headwaters of the Medway. The structure was built using bricks made from clay extracted near the site. Work on building the viaduct began in 1879, and was finished for the opening of the line in 1882.

In August 1967, the East Grinstead Observer reported that the viaduct was to be demolished, probably by the end of that year, and tenders were invited by British Rail for carrying out the demolition work. At that time there was still some track across the viaduct, and it was being used as a siding. Fortunately, the demolition did not take place, possibly because the tenders received were beyond the budget for the project. Whatever the reason, if it had gone ahead we would not have the Bluebell Railway back in East Grinstead now, and they would not have been able to purchase the viaduct for a nominal sum.

(Text and images Copyright Roy Henderson 2022 unless otherwise stated)

Sources:

Williamson, E., Hudson, T., Musson, J and Nairn, I. The Buildings of England (Sussex: West) [Yale University Press, 2019]

Graces Guide. Online at https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Frederick_Dale_Banister

East Grinstead Observer, 24th August 1967. “Closed Line Viaduct is to be Demolished”

Industrial Archaeology of East Grinstead

2. Dunnings Mill – TQ 39236 36878

Dunnings Mill, now enlarged and converted to a pub and restaurant called the Old Dunnings Mill, was formerly a watermill for grinding cereal grains (usually oats or wheat) into meal and flour. It is located on the Sunnyside stream, a small tributary of the Medway that rises in East Grinstead and joins the main course of the river near Brambletye, where there was also a watermill until the mid twentieth century. But the only other mill known to have been powered by the Sunnyside stream, was Brook Mill, the manorial watermill of Imberhorne manor, which stood about half a mile upstream, adjacent to the Turners Hill Road, which was then known as Old Mill Hill.

The water to turn the waterwheel of Dunnings Mill was stored in a millpond located where the pub car park and care home now stand. It was an overshot mill, meaning that the water flowed across the top of the wheel, turning it in the same direction as the flow of water. It drove two pairs of millstones. An abandoned millstone could still be seen in the nearby undergrowth until fairly recently.

Dunnings Mill was known by several different names in the past. In a late sixteenth century survey it was referred to simply as “the mill in the tenure of John Cole,” and an eighteenth century tithe record called it Wade or Rowland’s Mill. In 1840, it was recorded as Frampost or Framepost mill in a local directory, but the national census of the following year called it Dunnings Mill, the miller then being James Turner, the holder of a surname associated with several local mills. In 1851 Robert Cornwell was listed as miller, but by 1881 William Bellingham had taken over, Robert having retired to West Street. The last two millers known to have worked it commercially were Luke Godley and Luke Streatfield. The new private road adjacent to the mill has been named Streatfield Place.

Text and Images Copyright Roy Henderson 2022 unless otherwise stated.

Sources:

Stidder, D. & Smith, C. Watermills of Sussex Vol. II (West Sussex). Published by authors 2001.

Straker, Ernest (ed) The Buckhurst Terrier 1597-1598. Sussex Record Society 2007.

Henderson, Roy. Wealden Power. 2nd e-book edition, January 2011.

Industrial Archaeology of East Grinstead

  1. Sackville Water Tower (Formerly the Playfield Water Tower) TQ 39782 38110

This Grade II listed sandstone water tower was built in 1914 on part of a grass-covered area behind Sackville College. Although privately owned, the site had long been used both as a public amenity and a popular recreation ground, known locally as the Playfield. It was routinely used as a drying area for local residents’ laundry, and sporting events often took place there.

The tower was originally proposed by the local water company, in response to concerns expressed following a serious fire six years earlier, which destroyed the vicarage, the brigade being unable to stop the flames spreading, as there was inadequate water pressure. Fears were also expressed about the High Street’s historic timber-framed buildings, which were thought to be similarly at risk.

The Urban District Council at first opposed the water company’s plans, wishing to protect the Playfield’s long-standing status as a public amenity. Concessions were made and reassurances were given, and construction of the water tower finally went ahead, the building contractors being Norman & Burt of Burgess Hill. But the concessions failed to protect the Playfield in the long term, the remainder of the site now being occupied by the Chequer Mead car park.

Distinguished civil engineer William Vaux-Graham (1859-1940), well-known for his expertise in groundwater issues and the uses of water power, was responsible for the design and construction of the tower. He worked on many water-related projects in the UK and abroad, including other water towers in the area, as at Tadworth and Colley Hill near Reigate. He was also an expert meteorologist.

The water tower is 80 feet (24 metres) high, and internally consisted originally just of an empty space of 52 feet (16 metres) in height, with an open staircase attached to the walls, leading up to the base of a 30,000 gallon (136,000 litre) water tank at the top. During the Second World War the water tower roof was used as a Home Guard observation post, and a machine gun was mounted on one of the turrets. The tower was last used for its intended purpose around 1977, the tank subsequently being drained and removed. The building has since been converted, from former industrial usage, to living accommodation comprising seven floors, with 93 steps leading up to a mezzanine kitchen area at the top. The internal design, by Elspeth Beard Architects, includes a reception room on the ground floor, a playroom and four bedrooms on the lower floors, with a double-height living area at the upper level, also providing access to the roof terrace and its outstanding panoramic views.

Text and Images Copyright Roy Henderson 2022 unless otherwise stated.

Sources:

Leppard, M.J. 100 Buildings of East Grinstead (Phillimore 2006)

Grace’s Guide. Obituary of William Vaux-Graham, Website: https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/William_Vaux_Graham

Kelly, Rachel. “Dripping with potential.” Times, 27 June 1992, p.13

Elspeth Beard Architects. Web: http://www.elspethbeardarchitects.com/projects/sackvillewt.html